Just back from my favourite left point break up the West Coast. Solid swell and not the best it’s ever been it must be said, but some good waves on offer nevertheless and I was keen to try out the fish on some long, racy walls.
Given the size of the swell (6-8 foot on the point) and the amount of wind the wave faces were very choppy, which didn’t make for much stability on a 5.9 twin fin. It was on the cleaner waves that sucked up over the ledge that the board felt good, although even on the bigger ones it made the drops comfortably and handled well as long as there wasn’t chop.
When the swell dropped we missioned further up the coast and surfed a right reef at about 3-4 foot which was really fun on the fish. Loved the smooth lines it draws and the speed glide it gets going, even through flat sections.
Photo: Byron Loker